In Nazareth, preparations for the advent of the millennium began five years ahead of time. Vendors in the souk were evacuated from the Old City for a renovation that lasted forever and almost devastated the city's natural pace of life. But in the souk's open plaza, bounded by the entrance to the White Mosque and the stone walls of the Fahum family residence, purple eggplants, pickled cucumbers, steep mounds of green almonds and other wonderful items of produce that have never seen the inside of a hothouse lie, basking in the sun. Sitting on the ground, village women sell an assortment of seasonal greens picked in the hills that surround Nazareth - chamomile, wild spinach, hyssop and perfectly neat piles of big, beautiful grape leaves. In two bakeries hidden behind narrow stone passageways, the third-generation of a venerable family of bakers bakes fresh, hot pitas. At the Fahum coffee shop fine Colombian coffee is always brewing over a small gas flame, simmering for five days at least. One taste of this concentrated essence with its splendid bitter and strong flavor is like a shot of adrenaline.
The entrance to the souk is from 6152 Street, next to the Basilica of the Annunciation. The produce market is on 6132 Street.
Fahum Coffee Shop, 04-6456056
